ZumaFRD 19" Cantilever Chair Glides: Felt Glides (Standard), Frame: Silver Mist, Seat Color: Papaya

Special Price!!! ZumaFRD 19" Cantilever Chair Glides: Felt Glides (Standard), Frame: Silver Mist, Seat Color: Papaya

Oct 31, 2011 08:14:35

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ZumaFRD 19" Cantilever Chair Glides: Felt Glides (Standard), Frame: Silver Mist, Seat Color: Papaya Overview

ZFRDCANT+-GRY02-YLW44 Glides: Felt Glides (Standard), Frame: Silver Mist, Seat Color: Papaya ZUMAfrd's cantilevered chair offers elegant and ergonomic contours to bring balance and support into educational environments. Features: -Cantilevered sled base style legs -Ergonomically contoured shell with a tubular steel frame -Constructed from 5/8'' high impact thermoset Fortified Recycled Wood -Seat attached to frame with 6 screws each -Your choice of 4 standard felt glides, steel glides, or nylon glides -Seat height: 19 1/4'' -Overall Dimensions: 20 3/4'' W x 20 1/4'' D x 33'' H

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Types of Pens and Their Uses

In olden times quill pens made from bird feathers were all the rage, and were the primary writing instrument for many centuries. When the Industrial Revolution beckoned, a progressively more refined technology created improved writing tools, like the fountain pen for instance. The primary contemporary categories of pens can be classified by the sort of writing tip or point. Let us look at the more popular writing paraphernalia available in the market today, and also at writing instruments used in the past.

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• Ballpoint pen - Usually has tungsten carbide, steel or brass finishing. A ballpoint pen ordinarily measures between 0.7 to 1.2 millimeters and works by meting out thick oil based ink by navigating a minute hard orb. Ballpoint pens are very popular because the ink instantaneously dries upon contact with paper, plus, they are inexpensive and have a long life span. This type of pen is used in schools, colleges, universities and offices.

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• Rollerball pen - In the beginning, the rollerball pen was crafted to merge the expediency of a ballpoint pen with the silky "wet ink" outcome associated with the fountain pen. A rollerball pen's ink is usually water-based which is then distributed through a ball tip akin to a ballpoint pen. Because the ink is less thick and has a higher absorbance quality, this writing apparatus glides smoothly across paper or other writing materials.

• Fountain pen - The writing instrument choice of the distinguished and elite, it also has a water-based ink fluid which is then transported to a nib. From then on, the ink floods from a basin or tank, thanks to the ingenuity of combined gravity and capillary action. It is interesting to note that fountain pens do not possess any mobile components. Instead, ink is disseminated via a slim opening to the intended writing area. There are 2 types of fountain pen basins - refillable or disposable. The latter is known as an ink cartridge. Refillable fountain pens contain devices such as pistons to get ink from a container through the nib, or in some cases, the ink can be refilled using an eyedropper.

• Felt-tip pen - This instrument, also widely called a marker, has a permeable tip made from a rubbery substance. Felt-tip pens come in various sizes, with the smallest mainly used to write on paper. The larger version is what we normally use to mark cartons, chalkboards and whiteboards. The medium sized markers are popular with the much younger set, used for art purposes.

There are 3 kinds of pens used in times of yore and not universally employed, although in some parts of the world, they may be used sparingly.

• Dip pen - Also known as the nib pen, it is quite similar to the fountain pen, and has a metal nib with vessels. A dip pen is normally situated on a lever or receptacle made from wood. The drawback of the nib pen is that it must be frequently dipped into an ink container for repeated use. Nowadays, the nib pen is used mainly for art and design purposes, such as comics and calligraphy.

• Reed pen - This pen has almost departed the writing world, except for minor use for school children in remote parts of Pakistan, said to develop handwriting skills. Reed pens are made out of bamboos and reed, with an opening in a tapered tip.

• Quill pen - Made from feathers of birds like geese and eagles. A quill pen was one of the first writing instruments used, after the reed pen. The mechanism consisted of a shaft which operated as an ink basin, and the ink is distributed right to the tip via a passageway.

Types of Pens and Their Uses

Felt Furniture Glides

Special Price!!! ZumaFRD 19" Cantilever Chair Glides: Felt Glides (Standard), Frame: Silver Mist, Seat Color: Papaya

Oct 30, 2011 10:42:31

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Limin' in Ybor City--A Different Kind of Jury Duty

As the cocktail challenges escalate in bars from Bangkok to Bahia and San Francisco to South Beach, legendary bartenders (mixologists) and their followers, spend endless hours pouring and sipping up on new concoctions. Now in the mix, rum, long the spirit of choice throughout the West Indies, is being served in upscale bars and restaurants around the world. But limin’ is certifiably the best way to drink rum. Liming or Limin’ is a way of life centered on relaxation, which in the Caribbean includes drinking rum, sharing the news of the day and telling tales rich with hyperbole.

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Living in the Bay Area, a region where vineyards pop up from urban backyards to acres by the sea, it’s sacrilegious not to be a regular consumer of fine wines. While I enjoy a riveting red, I became a connoisseur of rum, when I was introduced to Angostura in Trinidad back in 1970. Smooth with a rich, memorable nose it is light years beyond the Barcardi I first drank in a Daiquiri. That introduction was followed by Demarara, the “Grande Dame of Rums.” It was first offered up at a Kwey Kwey—three day wedding celebration in Guyana—I attended in 1970. Folks partied 24/7 like that rum was encoded in their DNA.

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Guyana’s Demerara has one of the most distinctive tastes in the world and was my early introduction to the world of premium rums. Demerara Rums can be aged for extended periods, with 25-year-old varieties occasionally found in US stores. They are frequently used for blending with lighter rums from other regions including French Guyana and Surinam, a country I also traveled to in 1970. I spent time up in the bush with the Djukas, who were brought over from Ghana as slaves the 16th century. When I was in Surinam, the Djukas were living in ways very reflective of pre-colonial Africa.

In early December, I went online in search of Damoiseau Rum from Guadeloupe. That’s when I stumbled up on the Ministry of Rum. The concept was brilliant and after navigating the website I knew I’d come upon something rather unique. I began corresponding with Ed Hamilton and his partner in matters rum related Dori Bryant. While Ed is the self-appointed “Minister of Rum,” Dori is referred to as the Queen. Hamilton a former Tampa resident has spent more than a decade sailing the Caribbean. Based in Puerto Rico, he created the Ministry of Rum in 1993. Bryant, a former New Yorker with a gracious demeanor and quixotic smile, moved to Clearwater a few years ago. Now, I’ve really limed with some fabulous rum royalty in my day from throughout the Caribbean, who hold generational legacies in the world of libations and are descendants of those who made limin’ an embedded cultural tradition.

During the course of the correspondence, I noted the fact that I savor the flavor of fine rums and use it in my culinary creations which now include rum smoothies, a Mojito pound cake and Madelines, Six Month Black Rhum Cake, Rhumtoff, Cock and Bull Ginger Brew and Lemonade Rum Summer Sip and now a Cocurrumba. The correspondence led to an invitation from the Ministry of Rum to serve as a judge for the first US International Cane Spirits Festival and Tasting Competition.

Twenty-eight of us gathered in March and spent two days as judges for the Festival in Ybor City, Florida. While Barbados is the undisputed birthplace of rum, this festival was held in Florida. With several boarded up and empty buildings lining its quaint downtown, Ybor City is clearly a place struggling to regain its economic legs. Adjacent to Tampa, and renowned for its world class cigar rollers, legend has it that the Cuba Libre (rum and coke--a drink that can bring down the wrath of the Goddess of Libations) originated in Ybor City.

From Australia, St. Maarten, Panama, Brazil, England and the United States came distillers, writers, food critics, mixologists and modern day sailors constantly in search of the next adventure, often initiated and celebrated with a bottle of rum. Ian Williams, quite the rascal and a writer for the Nation was amongst us. In his new book Rum: A Social and Sociable History of the Real Spirit of 1776, he documents how rum shaped the modern world, noting it was to the 18th century what oil is now to the global economy. Wayne Curtis tells a raucous and entertaining story of America through the bottom of a drinking glass, in his new book and a Bottle of RUM—A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails (Crown 2006).

Ian A.V. Burrell, owner of Cotton’s Caribbean Restaurant in London (www.l-town.com), lays claim to the largest collection of rums in the United Kingdom. Ian is the rum expert for "Taste & Flavour" School for Spirits. He also works as a mixologist and serves as the Rum Brand Ambassador for J Wray & Nephew. Burrell, who was my seatmate, had an engaging smile that stretched across the big pond back into his ancestral home of Jamaica.
According to Hamilton, there are some 1500-2000 rums around the world. There are rums that sip so smoothly they slip down the throat coating it lusciously. There are others that marry ever so well with fruit juice or lend themselves to be fancied up in cocktails like a Caipirissima, poured over colored ice cubes and served in sexy glasses, seductively positioned on some hip bar in London, New York or Calcutta.

I personally like the aged añejos, amber, gold or dark mahogany rums; although the crispness of fine white rum can grab my spirit and alter my consciousness quite deliciously. Rhum vieux (aged rums) tend to have more aroma and flavor, and I like the way the finish lingers graciously on my palate. While each island or country varies in their traditions of distilling and aging the rum, the methods are as varied as well. Rums from Barbados (Mount Gay), Jamaica (Appleton) and Guyana (Demerara) are distilled from molasses, which can have many different flavors. There is rum agricole (made from sugar cane juice) and rum industriel (made from molasses). Some of these rums, mainly from Guadeloupe and Martinique, are often aged in used French brandy casks for a minimum of three years.

After missing the pouring of libations prior to the first round of blind tasting, a voice from inside reminded me that the Ancestors were awaiting recognition. From then on, I started each session acknowledging them and all who slaved and labored so I could indulge in this pleasure. We started off the first day tasting flavored, spiced and cream rums including St. Maarten Guava Berry Rum Liqueur and Prichard’s Cranberry Rum, which much to my surprise I enjoyed. This round also included Pirates Choice Key Lime Rum which grabbed my tongue with a very acidic, Sprite tasting finish. What I realize is that while lime and rum marry well, it is not a lasting marriage for being bottled does not allow that marriage to prosper. My palate also did not take to Vodkane, sugar cane vodka, which for me represented both a cultural and “spiritual” clash.

We also tasted a series Cachaças. Literally thousands of these rums are distilled in Brazil. Of the six Cachaças we tasted, one stood out for me—Agua Luca. All of the Cachaças were un-aged and according to those with the experience, the aged ones are far better. The other five had a medicinal bite and aftertaste, much like moonshine, that did not sit well on my palate. At one of the many post-tasting events, I got to sample Cachaça José Junqueira Guapiara Ouro and found it to unfold easily on the tongue.

When it came time for the over proof rums, I recused myself. That category included Cannes Royale and Inner Circle Black Dot. My palate cannot get beyond the bite of an over proof rum to appreciate its depth or flavor and I simply can’t get to the finish. I remember a horrifying experience some two decades ago with Stroh, a volatile spiced, cherry colored Austrian rum that has all the qualities of terrapentine. I could barely get the 160 proof (80% alcohol) spirits up to my lip, before violently rejecting it.

But day two was pure bliss, for with it came the tasting of the dark and premium rums. As fine as some of the best Cognacs, Sauternes and ports, these premium rums are a class apart. Cartavio 1929 Ron Añejo Reserva 7 years (Aruba) and Maui Reserve Gold Rum (Hawaii) were exciting and memorable for all the right reasons. My first experience with Hawaiian rum, more than a decade ago, did not impress me. But there was a rum to which I gave the highest points in each category—aroma, initial taste, body and finish: Ron Macuro Ron Añejo Ultra Premium from Venezuela. It was simply exquisite, so well balanced and memorable for all the right reasons.

While some of the rums had the hallmarks of a fine Cognac or blissful brandy, others had great aroma but a rocky finish. Of the 64 rums we tasted over the course of the two days, I’d only had two before and none of my strong standards including Babancourt (Haiti) were amongst them. Mount Gay and Appleton are great rums for the novice and of course, there is nothing like the fine Havana Club Añejo 7 years for transitioning to the next level. Mahogany and complex with a fine nose, Havana Club works well as both a sipping and mixing rum.

But it was exciting to be introduced to an entirely new world of rums including a rather respectable offering from Nepal. Coronation Khukri Rum, referred to as a taste of the Himalayas, comes in a bottle fashioned after an ancient Nepalese knife of the same name. My former mechanic introduced me to Old Monk, a silky smooth dark nectar of the gods, distilled from sugar cane grown in the lush green fields alongside India’s Ganges River.

While some rums should be sipped solo, others begged to be paired with a condiment laden curried goat or chicken. We also vetted a rum with the distinct aroma and taste of Bourbon; turns out Prichard’s Fine Rum was distilled in Tennessee. I kept two sets of tracking sheets and entered notes into my rum journal during the two days of blind tasting, so that I could figure out and remember specifics about what rang my chime and what caused me to pause and question what I’d just tasted.

One of the dark rums was so incredibly smooth I just had to let it glide right on down my throat. For all the rest I put the glass to my nose inhaled deeply, removed the glass and then returned it to my nose for a second journey into the aroma. I then tasted the rum by allowing my tongue to engage with it for at least a minute, before releasing it and then cleansing my palate with water. There were times I actually caught hints of hibiscus or passion fruit and noted overtones of vanilla bean and oak. There were others when the taste of alcohol or caramel overrode the subtle, natural flavors that flowed through and punctuated the rum. I gravitate towards rums that offer hints of flowers, fruit, chocolate, honey and spices, and with a long finish.

I was stunned by my stamina for the tasting, for while rum is my spirit of choice, I usually only drink it in August and December. By the end of the second and final day, many of us were suffering from palate fatigue and eager to know what all we’d tasted. Although I got a light buzz after the first session, lunch at the Good Luck Café got me over the hump. A brother back in the kitchen turned out some crab cakes that almost made me hallucinate, they were so mystically succulent.

On the second evening, my dear friend with whom I stayed joined me and we ventured into Columbia, a Cuban restaurant with the capacity to seat 1400 people. The black beans, plantains and pork were quite good. But I was absolutely mortified to discover that the Mojito was made with Captain Morgan. Holy Ancestors! That’s comparable to drinking Ripple, the infamous 20th Century fortified wine made by brothers Ernest and Julio Gallo and cousin to the equally notorious Thunder Bird. While Sharon politely sipped at the drink, I knew my rum “cred” was seriously undermined.

Along with the competition, the Ministry of Rum and several distillers joined with Ybor City restaurants to host the tasting of various rums. Participants were issued Rum Trail Passports and got to sample some of what the judges vetted. The festival closed with a rum ball at which Millie Puente, niece of legendary King of Mambo, percussionist and arranger Tito Puente, played a mean set that made me forget my arthritic knee and boogie on down with the beat.

With the top down on her new convertible, my friend Sharon and I drove over to Sarasota on Saturday, where we spotted a hot pink sign just off the highway, with “Estate Sale” on it. The sale was filled with fine Japanese furniture and art at very good prices. I left behind a mid-twentieth century, .00 Chinese oil painting that’s stayed on my mind since. We drove another twenty miles or so and went to Santa Maria Island and hung out on the beach watching the sun Samba into setting. It was cold, slightly cloudy and the ocean felt magical and reassuring. Highlights of the two days of tasting circled my memory, as I longed to return to that rain forest where David and I were in awe of some incredibly sensuous moments in nature, while honeymooning in Guadeloupe in 1986.

Serving as a judge for the First US International Cane Spirits Festival Competition took my rum world to new heights. I got to taste some magnificent new spirits and meet some interesting one’s as well, several of whom are engaging with the world on absolutely fascinating terms. I’m just thrilled that more people in the United States are getting to experience what people in the West Indies and Central and Latin America have for years; the pleasure of a remarkable and distinctive libation, whose history, legacy and pleasures many of us work hard to reconcile.

From the 2006 Rum Chronicles of Daphne Muse

Cocurrumba (Coconut, Curry, Rum, Banana)

While day dreaming of returning to the lush rain forest of Guadeloupe, the idea for a drink popped into my mind. Thus was born the Cocurrumba. I hope this puts you in the frame of mind to chillax and get into a limin’ state of mind.

Two to three ounces of amber or mahogany rum (I tend to pour heavily, so you can cut it back to 1.5 ounces if that suits you better.)

4 ounces of Coconut milk

Generous splash of a lime

Add the coconut milk to the rum

Shake vigorously

Then add a generous splash of lime

Next, add crushed ice and shake vigorously again

Remove the ice and pour into a chilled cocktail glass

with a wide rim eager to receive the rum

Grate a hit of nutmeg over the drink

Top with a thin slice of banana and finish with a pinch of curry

Word Count=153

My Top Twelve Rums

While rums are now being distilled in Arizona, Australia, Austria and California, my preferences steer me towards offerings from the Caribbean, epicenter of the rum world.

Five Star Babancourt (Haiti), truly the Cognac of rums

Angostura 1824 Rum (Trinidad)

Cartavio 1929 Ron Anejo Reserva (Aruba)

Havana Club Añejo 7yo (Cuba)

Rhum Clément Tres Vieux (Martinique)

Appleton Estate 21 Years Old (Jamaica)

Mount Gay (Barbados)

10 Cane, 80 Proof (Trinidad)

Flor de Caña Centenario 21 (Art made into rum from Nicaragua)

Reserva Añeja (Puerto Rico)

St. James Royal Amber Rum (Martinique)

Longueteau Rhum Blanc (Guadeloupe)

Ron Macuro Ron Añejo Ultra Premium (Venezuela)

What I long to taste

El Dorado 25 Year Old rum (Guyana)

Plantation Rum Jamaica - 1983 Vintage (Jamaica)

Fernandes Black Label Rum (Trinidad & Tobago)

Ron Coba 12 yr Rum (Guatemala)

Angostura 1824 Limited Reserve (Trinidad)

Seventh Heaven Ginger and Bois Bandé Rum (St. Lucia)

Ron Liberación 15 Años (Cuba)

Mekhong Special Thai Rum (Thailand)

Sunset Light Rum (St. Vincent)

Clarke's Court Original White Rum (Grenada)

Cockspur 1639 (Barbados)

Rhum Martinique Chauvet (Martinique)

For the names of the rums tasted and prizes awarded at the festival, go to www.minstryofrum.com [http://www.minstryofrum.com]. For an overview of the judges and their backgrounds go to:

[http://www.ministryofrum.com/judges.htm].

Daphne Muse is “boomin” as a social commentator and the author of The Entrance Place of Wonders—Poems of the Harlem Renaissance (Abrams 2006).
http://www.daphnemuse.com

Limin' in Ybor City--A Different Kind of Jury Duty

Felt Furniture Glides

Special Price!!! ZumaFRD 19" Cantilever Chair Glides: Felt Glides (Standard), Frame: Chrome, Seat Color: Squash

Oct 29, 2011 12:52:43

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ZumaFRD 19" Cantilever Chair Glides: Felt Glides (Standard), Frame: Chrome, Seat Color: Squash Overview

ZFRDCANT+-CHRM-YLW47 Glides: Felt Glides (Standard), Frame: Chrome, Seat Color: Squash ZUMAfrd's cantilevered chair offers elegant and ergonomic contours to bring balance and support into educational environments. Features: -Cantilevered sled base style legs -Ergonomically contoured shell with a tubular steel frame -Constructed from 5/8'' high impact thermoset Fortified Recycled Wood -Seat attached to frame with 6 screws each -Your choice of 4 standard felt glides, steel glides, or nylon glides -Seat height: 19 1/4'' -Overall Dimensions: 20 3/4'' W x 20 1/4'' D x 33'' H

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Furniture Care and Preservation

Weather Changes

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Wood is very sensitive to water and changes in relative humidity. As the weather changes from season to season, so does the humidity in your home and also the moisture content of your wood furniture. This situation causes the wood to expand and contract with every change in the humidity. The purpose of the finish is to minimize the effects of moisture changes by sealing the wood. Wood likes moderate conditions of around 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit with a relative humidity of around 45 percent to 55 percent. Most homes today have air handling systems that provide a humidifier in winter to add moisture when the air is "dry" and an air conditioner in summer to remove moisture when the air is "wet". If you do not have this optimum condition but keep the temperature and humidity steady, even if they are to high or to low, it is much better than frequent and/or sudden changes. Furniture can deteriorate quickly if stored in a basement (high moisture), attic (high heat), garage or non -climate controlled storage units or warehouses (continual changing conditions). Excess heat and dryness can cause wood to split and/or crack. Keep your furniture away from all direct heat sources like radiators, wood stoves and air ducts. If you need to put your furniture near a heat source, use a shield or diverter to deflect or direct heat away. Wood is most likely to check (crack) when the climate in your home suddenly changes from hot and humid to cold and dry. Frequent and sudden changes in humidity and temperature are especially bad.

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Here are a few suggestions for dealing with humidity:
Furniture can best handle temperature and humidity changes when they occur gradually. Sudden changes like opening a vacation home, or putting items into non-climate controlled storage in winter directly from your warm home can be problems for your furniture. When air conditioning your home, it is best to keep the intake of outside humid air to a minimum. Don't open the windows to "air out" the house on fair days. Add a humidifier or vaporizing unit to your heating system to help stabilize the humidity level during the cold dry months of winter. Use dehumidifiers in damp rooms and during prolonged rainy seasons to remove excess moisture from the air.
Sunlight

The ultraviolet light rays from the sun will damage finishes and bleach the stain and wood underneath. Prolonged exposure to sunlight can cause the finish to crack, sometimes in a pattern resembling the looks like cracked glass. Try to keep furniture out of direct sunlight. When that's not possible, reduce the amount of light streaming on any piece of furniture. Use window shades, drapes or blinds to block direct sun light during the time of day the furniture is exposed. The use of UV screening films will dramatically reduce long term bleaching effect and are well worth the investment. Uniformly expose surfaces to light. Avoid letting the sun hit only part of a surface. Occasionally move lamps, doilies and other objects so the wood bleaches uniformly. Cover furniture with sheets or blankets if you leave your home for several months at a time. Move your furniture around periodically so that the same piece is not exposed to light all the time. However, some bleaching can be desirable. Antique collectors actually look for the rich, soft tones that fading can bring, particularly on Walnut and Rose Wood.

Cleaning

Carefully choose wood care products. There is a lot of confusion about what wood-care products to use. Store shelves are stacked with countless brands of wax, polish, spray and oil. Clever marketing techniques, tell us to use there product because it "feeds" the wood while it cleans and protects it too. Unless your furniture is unfinished, or the finish has deteriorated and worn off, when you clean your furniture you're actually cleaning the finish, not the wood. There is absolutely no way for any cleaning product to "feed" or "nourish" the wood because the wood is sealed and protected by the finish. Proper care will prolong the life of a finish. Waxing the finish makes the surface of furniture slippery so that objects slide along it without scratching and dust will not stick. The wax protects the finish and the finish protects the wood. To clean, simply wipe with a soft lent free, damp (not wet) cloth. Be careful using water to clean wood. Water is wood's worst enemy. Wood should never get wet or soaked. Water can cause swelling, warping or satins if it penetrates a finish. Most finishes are water resistant, not water proof. Use coasters, pads, cloths or runners to protect against spills and water rings. Consulting a professional before cleaning valuable antiques and heirlooms.

Dusting

What's the best way to care for my furniture? Ask five different people, and you'll get five different answers. But most "experts" agree on a some basics. First of all, remember your mother is always right: Dust frequently. Keep away from feather dusters. They just move dust around, flinging it into the air, moving from one item to the next. Broken quills have sharp edges and could scratch the finish. Some types of dust are abrasive so infrequent dusting can create worn and dull surfaces over the years. Dust can accumulate in carvings, cracks and grooves and look an unattractive "gray". This dusty buildup eventually becomes hard to remove. This "gray" look is often imitated by finishers using wax mixed with pumice or rotten stone powders to make an item look aged (Aren't we clever!).

Use a clean, washable cloth made of soft, lint-free cotton. My favorites are cotton diapers, old T-shirt, or any soft cotton fabric. When using old clothing be sure to remove all hooks, snaps, buttons and zippers that could scratch surfaces. Don't use a rag that has loose threads or unraveling edges. These can catch on wood splinters, moldings or loose veneer and pull them off.

Dusting with a dry cloth is abrasive and will ultimately dull the finish. A dry cloth will not really remove much dust. Sprinkling a few drops of water onto the dusting cloth. The trick is to moisten the cloth just enough to make dust adhere to it. The cloth should not be so damp that it wets the finish (leaving water streaks). If you can see any trace of water on the wood after you wipe, your cloth is to wet. Do not use any spray-on dusting aids or polish. Most of them contain water with an emulsifier to suspend some kind oil, or contain silicones. This type of oil is used in most commercial furniture sprays and polishes.

Wipe off dust using gentle, oval motions along the grain of the wood. Turn or fold the cloth often so you don't just move dust and dirt from one spot to another. Lift, don't slide, lamps and objects to dust under them.

Scratch Prevention

Lift, don't slide, objects on finished surfaces. Place objects on trivets, tablecloths, doilies or others covers to protect the finish. Use felt bottoms on lamps and other decorative objects. Especially ceramic objects as they are very abrasive. Avoid bright red felt because its color could leach into the wood through the finish. Use water based wood glue to stick the felt on objects. Some Chemicals in self stick adhesives used on felt can cause a reaction that softens or melts the finish. Use place mats or a table cloth to protect the finish from plates and silverware.

Chemical Exposure

Keep solvents products like nail polish remover, alcohol and paint thinner away from furniture because they can harm the finish. Alcohol is in colognes, perfumes, medications as well as in wine, beer and liquor. Your perspiration and body oils can also harm a finish over time. Plants and flower nectar or pollen that touch the finish can also cause permanent stains. Over watering a plant can cause permanent stains when the fertilizers that dissolved into the water soaks through the finish to the wood. Placing hot items on furniture can cause a chemical change in the finish that results in white rings or spots.

Do not leave plastic objects lying on finished surfaces. Color from plastic tablecloths, appliance covers, food wrappers, plastic place mats and toys can discolor the finish and leach into wood over time. There can be a chemical reaction between some types of finish and cretin plastics that causes them to stick to each other, damaging the finish when it is pulled off. I once repaired an armoire after the customer placed a pair of leather-like gloves on the shelf in the spring and could not remove them next fall.

Moving

Lift, don't slide heavy furniture especially on carpets. After a short time heavy items will flatten the carpet and padding under the legs or base. Pulling or sliding an item with some of its legs in these "craters" will often brake them. Sliding pieces on wood floor can damage the floors. Furniture legs may or may not have protective glides on them. The glides are used at the factory to make it easy to slide items without damaging the legs on hard surfaces. They are there primarily to aid in the manufacturing process not to protect your floor.

Brass Polishing

First, is it truly brass? A lot of modern hardware is a brass plating over a steel base. Take a small magnet off the refrigerator and see if it will stick to the brass. If it does, its plated and not solid brass. Heavy polishing of a plated item often will remove the plating reveling the steel base. Use caution and very light polishing for this type of hardware.

Some brass, solid and plated, was designed to have a dark, "antique" look. A chemical solution was applied to the brass to make it turn color. This is most often seen on the lesser expensive plated hardware.

Most solid and plated brass hardware on furniture today has a protective, tarnish resistant coating. It probably will not tarnish for a very long time and will only need to be dusted. If the brass is tarnishing and you want to polish it, first remove the brass so that the brass cleaner will not damage the finish. If your brass cleaner/polish does not seam to work, it may be that there is a protective finish covering the brass that must be removed first. After polishing it is best to apply a new tarnish resistant coating. Brass will tarnish quickly when exposed to air.

Wax Build-up

Wax build-up from past waxing is not often seen today. Because most people have been sold on the "benefits" and convince of spray polishes or oil. Very few people in North America use real wax today.

Wax build-up occurs over a long period of time. Its usually only seen in the crevices and corners where it can not be wiped off or when to much wax is used and then accumulates. The same areas where dust accumulates also. The built up mixture of dust and wax presents no real potential danger or damage to the furniture. It is a problem of aesthetics only. Some people however, prefer the patina of this aged look.

Removing old wax is done with solvents that dissolve the wax and then are wiped off with a clean cloth. The procedure is often performed several time to achieve a complete cleaning before a new coat of wax is applied. This procedure is best left to professionals who work in well ventilated work areas.
Also read: Wax, Polish, Oil: Which Is Best?

Drawers

It is important to check your furniture's drawer system for ware and damage every few years or when they stick or are hard to open. Pull out each drawer and examine the runners, slides, stops and guides. Not all drawer systems have all those components. Some will have metal drawer slides others have wood runners and some just slide on the frame of the cabinet. On metal parts use a small amount of light grease or petroleum jelly to lubricate friction points and bearings. On wood to wood parts use a candle or block of paraffin wax to lubricate all surfaces where wood rubs on wood. Some drawer systems have a center wood slide with a plastic or metal guide or just plastic guides at the right and left sides of the drawer opening. For this type wax only the wood that runs against the guides. If a drawer goes into the cabinet to far, then the drawer stops are broken or missing and should be repaired.

Don't cram extra clothing into a full drawer. The drawer may be designed to carry the weight but the extra stress created by the friction or clothing catching on edges can brake the drawer's components or chip off veneer. Use some discretion in the amount of weight you put into very large drawers. They may be able to hold a lot of volume but not excess weight. If a properly working and lubricated drawer is hard to open, you most likely have to much weight in it. Drawers that have two handles should be opened using both to prevent damage to runners and guides. Tighten lose, and replace missing screws that secure the hardware. Lose hardware mars the finish and gouges the wood. All lose joints and broken parts should be repaired as soon as possible to prevent additional damages. Drawers that stick in the summer months are swollen due to the extra moisture in the air. This occurs most often to drawers that are unfinished or not sealed on the inside. They should be adjusted to fit properly, then sealed to prevent recurrence. Don't pry stuck drawers open or slam tight fitting drawers shut, as this often causes severe damage.

Doors

There are two types of doors on furniture. Sliding doors and hinged doors. A sliding door can be glass or wood. It fits into a slot or grove (top and bottom) which is sometimes lined with a plastic molding. These doors require little maintenance. If they do not slide easily they may just need a little lubricating. Most sliding doors, other than tambours, can be removed by lifting the door into the top slot so that it clears the bottom slot then pull the bottom of the door out and the top will follow. Lubricate the slots and door edges that fit into the slots with paste wax or paraffin for doors that have a wood to wood fit. A small amount of petroleum jelly works great for glass doors in a plastic track. Tambours are sliding panels made of small strips of wood with a cloth backing enabling them to bend around corners and slide in tracks that are shaped to fit the contour of the furniture (a roll-top desk is an example). The best way to lubricate these is to slid the panel all the way in, then lubricate the track (slot/grove). To remove a tambour it is necessary to remove at least the back and often other parts. Removing or repairing tambours should generally be done by a professional.

There are a number of things that can cause a hinged door not to fit properly. One of the most common problems is that the cabinet is not level and the top or bottom edges of the doors will bind or rub on the cabinet frame. This is simple to fix. Large wood cabinets are flexible and will conform to the shape of the floor or carpet. To check if leveling is the problem look at the top edges of the doors, if you have two doors the top edges of booth doors should be in a straight line with each other and have an even clearance gap from the frame of the cabinet. An out of level cabinet will have doors edges that slant (both doors in the same direction) showing a narrowing clearance gap from one end of the door to the other. To correct a leveling problem, shim the front leg on the side where the clearance gap is the smallest or the back leg where the clearance gap is the largest. I use a piece of cardboard as a shim, folding it over on itself several times (trial and error method) to achieve the proper thickness that will align the doors properly.

A door that will not stay closed is a nuisance. Here is a check list of things that cause this problem.
The cabinet is leaning forward. Don't laugh, it happens a lot. When you set a cabinet against the wall in a room with wall to wall carpeting make sure you do not set the back legs on the carpet's tack strip. This will cause it to lean forward. Also check for adjustable levelers that are over extended on the back legs. The cabinet is out of level causing the door catches not to align. The door is "hinge bound". This occurs when the mortis cuts into the door and/or cabinet frame to mount the hinge is to deep causing the hinged side of the door to hit the cabinet's frame. The hinges need to be shimmed to correct this problem. The door is "screw bound". This is similar to hinge bound in that the door can not close all the way. The screws in the hinges are to large or the wrong kind (round head instead of flat head). The heads of the screw(s) on the door side of the hinge and the ones on the frame side hit each other, not allowing the door to close. The door catches are broken, missing or worn out.

Loose and missing hinge screws also cause door fit problems. Double doors will hit each other in the center, single door cabinets will rub against the top side of the cabinet frame and both types will rub or drag on the bottom. Often wearing off the finish. To check for loose screws, open a door a short distance and hold it on the top with one hand and the bottom with your other hand. Gently tilt it up and down. If the hinges are loose you will feel the door move and may hear a sound also from the screws hitting the metal hinges.

One more thing. Be careful opening cabinets with large doors. The weight of the door(s) when open can cause the cabinet to fall forward! Newer furniture comes with a warning tag, but older and antique items do not. You can secure the cabinet to the wall or floor with screws or load it with heavy items to counter balance the weight of the doors. I have heard several reports of people being injured when they opened heavy glass doors and the cabinet fell over on them.

Glass and Mirrors

There is not much maintenance required for glass panels or mirrors. Just clean with your favorite glass cleaner as needed. The proper way to clean glass on furniture is to apply the cleaner to the rag, not directly on the glass itself. Spray type glass cleaners contain ammonia and some times alcohol. The over-spray that gets on the wood trim can damage the finish over time.

A few thoughts to consider about re-silvering mirrors and beveled glass. It is much less expensive to replace a mirror than to re-silver it if the edge is not beveled. Beveled edging can be expensive because not many glass shops do that kind of work. They will send it out to a third party and mark-up the price. There are a number of franchise type restoration shops that offer re-silvering in-house and some of them will sub-out the job. The "look" of an old glass that has been properly re-silvered has a beautiful gold colored hue which is very desirable on antique furniture. I have seen several re-silvered mirrors that have deteriorated in a relatively short time. Find out what warranty comes with a re-silvering job before you commit to have the work done. Re-silvering is a good choice if you have an old glass (the "wavy look" of old glass is from the type of processing. The molten glass was pulled from the oven and stretched to a thickness as it cooled. New glass is done much the same way, but goes through sets of steel rollers, thus a very smooth finish and consistent thickness).

Furniture Care and Preservation

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Oct 28, 2011 15:18:55

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Oct 27, 2011 17:46:17

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ZFRDCANT+-GRY02-BRN14 Glides: Felt Glides (Standard), Frame: Silver Mist, Seat Color: Chocolate ZUMAfrd's cantilevered chair offers elegant and ergonomic contours to bring balance and support into educational environments. Features: -Cantilevered sled base style legs -Ergonomically contoured shell with a tubular steel frame -Constructed from 5/8'' high impact thermoset Fortified Recycled Wood -Seat attached to frame with 6 screws each -Your choice of 4 standard felt glides, steel glides, or nylon glides -Seat height: 19 1/4'' -Overall Dimensions: 20 3/4'' W x 20 1/4'' D x 33'' H

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The Power Of Self Confidence

The Power of Self-Confidence Is there any quality so attractive, so appealing, so admirable as self-confidence? Individuals with this characteristic seem to exude a sort of aura that draws others to them. They are powerful, strong, enthusiastic, decisive but often enjoyable to be around.For every person with impressive self-confidence, there are a number who suffer from a lack of that very quality. Are you one of them?

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Mediocrity and poor performance are often due to low self-confidence but is not something you have to live with. Confidence is a learned trait, not something we are born with. It's not like the color of our eyes or the height of our bodies. It is something that can be impacted and developed over a fairly short period of time to being well above average, yet often people shy away from the chance as they consider themselves not worthy of a better life. You own psyche can be influenced beneficially by you, creating a stronger sense of self-worth and a higher overall quality of life. Things can only annoy you, upset you, or affect you in any way, if you give it permission to.

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Self-confidence gives you the ability to carry out your daily tasks with energy and certainty. So many people are just wading through life with a feeling of hesitancy or shyness; the self-confident person seems to glide on the surface. With a few small achievements under your belt, they soon multiply and create a new confidence from deep within you. You blossom and open yourself up to new experiences and enjoyable activities like opening a cellar door, bringing light to the gloom and mire of the depths. You actually create your own "luck" by being the kind of person who craves adventure, calculated risk, and the promise of great rewards. You don't gamble with your new found skills, you never risk anything unnecessary, but you now feel happier to take counsel and make decisions.

Fake it until you make it. Like many behaviors, projecting self-confidence is something that grows into a pattern over time. Even if you start out feeling uncertain and hesitant, simply give the impression that you really are pumped full of confidence. For the time being you will fool others into thinking that you are as assertive and ambitious as you seem, and in time you will "trick" yourself into believing it, too. But beware the arrogance this can sometimes encourage. Use the power of affirmations and the Universal Laws to your advantage.

You may also want to start by visualising yourself as a more self-confident individual. Imagine the way you will walk, talk and think when you have raised your self-confidence to a high level. Focus on that picture and with time it will become a reality!

Self-confidence is a strange thing. The more you feel it, the more it thrives and grows. A seedling of confidence will blossom over time into a healthy plant! So the key is to start off with at least some small task that you can accomplish and feel good about. Plan a schedule of activities where you challenge yourself on an increasing level of difficulty but at your own pace. Set a concrete goal for yourself that you know you will be able to obtain. It doesn't matter how seemingly insignificant it is--the point is simply to suffuse yourself with that feeling of achievement, so that you can experience it and start to grow it into something larger and more all-encompassing. Then do the same but dream a little bigger this time.

Self Confidence Tips1) How to Feel Good When You Need to

Scientists have stated that self confidence and feeling good has a major 'hormonal' element, you can change the way you feel by re-living good times. If you can remember a time you felt really self confident, then excellent - use that! If not, then use a time you felt contented or happy. Taking deliberate control of your thoughts and emotions will have a huge impact on your self confidence and other areas of your life.

2) Beating Self Consciousness, Confidence Enemy No.1

Despite the fact that self awareness is useful for learning about the impact you have on others, too much self consciousness is the No.1 enemy of self confidence. The trick is keeping your attention off yourself when you need to. Here's how...

a) When you feel self-conscious, (you can usually tell because you start to feel anxious), choose something outside of yourself to focus on and study it in detail. For example: examine a door, look at the different textures and shades of colour, wonder about who made it and how and so on. The important thing is that you're learning how to keep your attention off yourself.

It is a good idea to practice this technique in private first. Just sit quietly, practising focusing firstly on your own thoughts and then deliberately focusing outwards onto a picture or piece of furniture.

b) Social self confidence can be difficult to find sometimes because it is unclear what you are 'supposed to do'. In this event, concentrate on what your purpose in the situation is. Whether you're there to:

It's much more difficult to feel self-conscious if your mind is occupied with a task. An excellent task is listening and trying not to talk over or talk back to the person with whom you are talking. Everyone likes to talk about themselves, and a simple tactic is to use the acronym FORM. Ask them about Family, Occupation, Recreation and finally Monetary Goals (retirement plans, their children's university plans or ask for advice on their investment strategy!).

People are often most comfortable with others when working towards a common goal. The common goal of socializing could be making friends, the exchange of mutually beneficial information; expanding your knowledge of different types of people... it could be whatever you want it to be! The key is to have a strategic goal and a tactical objective along with landmarks along the way to identify your progress.

3) Watch Out for Undue Criticism - Especially Your Own!

Have you noticed that people will speak to themselves in a way they would never speak to others? You know the sort of thing - you break a glass and it's "You stupid idiot. You can't do anything right can you?" This type of criticism leaves the receiver feeling upset or depressed is rarely useful and sticks in the memory because it was said by someone close to you... you!

Challenging your own assumptions about yourself and other people can really help build self confidence. Here's a few to get you started: Those confident-looking people have bad moments too - you just don't get to hear about them!

If you feel as if you lack confidence, it doesn't mean other people can tell. They're often too caught up with their 'own stuff' to notice!

If you catch yourself saying things to yourself like "I'm no good at anything" then rest assured, you're no good at stating the truth about that. Everyone can compose a sentence, get successfully to the store, eat without choking and do a million other things. Emotion can make things seem hopeless when they rarely are.

Don't let yourself make sweeping statements about yourself - in the long run it is this sort of thing that can really damage your self image. If this happens, say to yourself calmly and gently, "Hold on a minute, that's not true". If you can come up with some evidence that disproves the sweeping statement, then even better. It may take a bit of effort at first, but the impact on your self confidence levels is huge.

Building self esteem is not just about thinking good of yourself, it's about not thinking bad without reason! Just because you have felt bad about yourself in the past doesn't mean you're always going to feel that way. I have seen hundreds of people surprise themselves once they have learned how to build self confidence in a way that it stays built!

The important thing is to get away from asking yourself disempowering questions like; "Why did that happen?", or "Why do I feel this way?", "Why does this always happen to me?" Replace those questions by using 'moving towards' questions like; "How would I like to feel?", "In what situations do I feel confident?", "What lessons can I learn from this?, "What is good about this situation?", "What have I achieved by doing this?" or, "What do I need to learn in order to have better self confidence in this situation?"

Persevere and don't expect everything at once. Really learn how to develop your self confidence by following the tips from this site and the free Self Confidence Course and notice the small differences as they happen. Building good self confidence is a wonderful thing, and it's much easier than you'd imagine.

The Power Of Self Confidence

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Oct 26, 2011 20:14:29

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Oct 25, 2011 22:42:31

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Hints and Problems For French Polish

A finished french polished surface should be left at least a week to harden before you use it. Wax will protect it, but reduce the brilliance a little; if you want an eggshell or a flatter finish, apply pumice with a felt pad and oil or rottenstone powder dry with a dulling brush (furni¬ture rubbing brush). Be extremely gentle; if you use oil, wipe it off and buff the surface with a clean soft cloth.

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For awkward corners, mouldings and carvings, you can apply polish with a soft bear-, squirrel- or sable-hair mop, or use glaze, which is easy to apply and quick-drying. In fact a spirit varnish (gum benzoin in meths), glaze can be bought from trade suppliers. It is, however, less durable than polish itself. Lay a body of polish, then finish off with two or three coats of glaze, allowing them to harden properly between applications.

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For the insides of cabinets and desks, where you want to seal and protect the surface but do not need a full french polished finish, use dry shining. This is basic polishing, without the grain filling or the use of oil. Fad and body enough just to fill the grain, using straight then circular strokes; after three or four applica¬tions, charge the rubber slightly more fully than usual and finish off with long, even strokes. Oil would have to be spirited off, defeating the whole object of speed and ease, so do not use any, but be extra careful to prevent the rubber sticking.

'Stiffing' is a technique for cabinet interiors and other areas where you cannot glide on and off the edges. Start at the edges and work towards the middle, lifting the rubber as you get there to overlap a stroke you have made from the other side. It takes a lot of practice to be able to do this without building up ridges; if you do get some, they can be smoothed very delicately with a spirit rubber after about half an hour's hardening time.

Lubricating a french polish rubber with oil can be less controlled than just lubricating one sticky area of the surface, which many professionals prefer to do. Always be sparing with oil, and do not use it unless you really have to. Do not keep worrying away at a problem area, it will only get worse. Leave it to harden a few minutes and then see whether a wipe with polish will smooth it out. If not, paper it back when it's hard.

Make sure there is no dampness in the surface. When repolishing an old piece, dismantle it as far as possible, taking off removable mouldings and marking them so they go back in the same place. Mount them on a strip of hardboard and fix them to a board to work on them, so the edges are held away from the surface. If you have stained a repair to match in and it lightens under the polish, tint some polish and brush that over the area, let it harden and seal it with a thin coat, then continue over the whole surface. If you are making panelled doors, try to polish the panel before you glue up the frame - the glue will not adhere to the polish, and there will be no problem getting your rubber into the corners. Other¬wise you must use the pear-shaped point of the rubber.

Make up felt- or blanket-covered battens to protect a polished surface when you have to do the other side; pad vice (vise) jaws like this too. Do not trail your shirt-buttons, jewellery or a loose edge of rag from the rubber over the work; keep your hands as free from flaky dried shellac as possible; pour polish and oil well away from the work; and, above all, start on small, unimportant surfaces and move on to more ambitious projects as you get the feel of the rubber and the polish.

Hints and Problems For French Polish

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Oct 25, 2011 01:09:14

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Double Glazed Upvc Doors:How Many Different Types Are Available Before I Buy?

Composite Doors: More and more these doors are now becoming the preferred choice for the homeowner with increased amounts of security, warmth, and strength coming from their 48mm thick GRP or Glass reinforced plastic door slabs, the composite door is fast becoming the replacement to the more traditional upvc panel door available here in the UK.

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Panel Doors: These doors have been available since the late 70s and early eighties modern technology has increased the curb side appeal with glass bevels resin bevels and a vast variety of different types, colours and designs however the fundamental part of the door remains the same, a panel (normally ply reinforced in better quality doors) glazed internally to a sash or opening part which is hung on the outer frame.

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Front and rear entrance doors: Now primarily in the two main categories above, price and quality vastly differ from each supplier research via the internet is a must before spending hard earned cash.

Crucifix Doors: Before the event of the modern composite the crucifix door (named because the whole centre of the door consists of a transom running horizontally and a mullion running vertically or from top to bottom in the shape of a crucifix). gave the homeowner increased security levels due to the fact the glazing areas were vastly reduced into four sections as opposed to one or two cutting the area a prospective thief could gain entrance by providing a strong physical barrier via the transom an mullions respectfully.

upvc Cottage Doors: For those of us who live in the countryside or would like to bring a little of the countryside to suburbia modern upvc cottage doors have all the aesthetic looks of a traditional cottage door with modern ship lap veneers being employed to replicate that original cottage look, without all the drafts high maintenance and other unwanted characteristics their older wooden counterparts are quite often so badly remembered for.

upvc Bifold Doors. A contemporary solution to the great out doors coming into the home. These doors glide effortlessly on a track which gives several options to the consumer on how these doors open. An example on a five section bifold door might be three sections going left and two right or vice a versa the possibilities are endless, however these doors sometime referred to as zig zag doors all have one thing in common when in the fully open position, they offer great ventilation and a sense of summer to the home, again an ever increasing popular choice in modern living!

Patio Doors. Traditionally two panes however larger patios can go up to four pain for larger apertures. One door sliding often called the sash and one staying in position, modern patios benefit from additional security with many been fitted with state of the art locking and anti lift devices now fitted as standard with further security issues being increased via technical breakthroughs in glass technology.

Tilt and Slide Patio Doors. The Rolls Royce of patios not only can these doors slide put for added benefit during the summer months a tilt mechanism allows the owner to simply tilt the patio open rather than have a full door open to gain much needed fresh air in the summer months.

French Doors These doors seem to becoming more popular than patios simply for their ease of access, unlike a patio, a French door can open completely with no obstacles in the way for when it comes to moving furniture in and out the home French doors win!

So its fair to say the term double glazed upvc doors no longer springs to mind the traditional front or back door, modern manufacturing techniques have brought a vast array of choices to the homeowner which can only be a good thing. The hard part now is simply choosing which type of door will best suit your home with a careful research and selection combined with a bit of common sense a homeowner can gain security and comfort from any Double glazed Uupvcpvc door they now might purchase with a real sense of improvement felt once correctly installed!

Double Glazed Upvc Doors:How Many Different Types Are Available Before I Buy?

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Special Price!!! ZumaFRD 19" Cantilever Chair Glides: Felt Glides (Standard), Frame: Silver Mist, Seat Color: Black

Oct 25, 2011 01:07:50

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